Call me crazy, but I’ve always wanted to run a half
marathon. Back in the States, I would run in 5K races, but never had the chance
to run in any serious long-distance race. That may be because, truth be told, I
do not like running. That’s right. I find little joy in running, jogging,
sprinting, or any variation thereof. I find that going for a run is boring,
tiresome, and often times painful. Although I love to work out, I prefer my
cardio to come either in the form of biking, kick boxing, or heavy weight
lifting. So why do I like races? I don’t know…there’s just something about
running outside with a group of people, adrenaline flowing, in a competitive
atmosphere. I like crossing the finish line and seeing that my time has gotten
better, that I’m getting stronger, and that I’m gradually running faster. So,
don’t ask me why, but one day I decided I wanted to run a half-marathon, just
because I could.
My chance came, strangely enough, here in Peru. During a
regional meeting in Ica, Taylor, a running-enthusiast PCV, announced that
Movistar, a Peruvian cell phone company, was hosting a 10K, half-marathon, and
full marathon race in Lima in May. She thought it would be fun to form a PCV
team and enter the race together. Well, why not? At this point, it was sometime
around late January or early February, which is more or less the peak of rainy
season in my site. I had nothing to do and, since half of the town was gone, it
was unlikely that my schedule was going to change much. What could be a better
and healthier way to fill my time than train for a 13-mile race?
If you look online, you can find all sorts of training
programs for half-marathon and full marathon runners. There are lots of little
timetables that show you how many months out you should begin training, how
many times per week you should run, how far and how long you should run each
time, what sorts of cross training you can do to boost your endurance, etc.
Unfortunately, I do not have the luxury of following those kinds of training
program. I live in the middle of nowhere, with no paved or marked roads, at
high altitude, in the middle of the rainy season. “Training” was sort of a
loose term, given the circumstances. My site mate and fellow PCV, Jeannie,
assured me that after the 4th mile in a half-marathon “adrenaline
just takes over and you run the rest of the 9 miles like it’s nothing.” I say
that’s bullshit (side note: Jeannie was also a college rugby player and
swimmer, so there’s a smidge of difference between our levels of athleticism).
I knew that even though I couldn’t follow a strict training program, I most
certainly did have to train. The question was, how was I going to do it?
Of course, running has to be included in your training in
some form or another. This was a problem, since all of Aurahuá’s roads are dirt
roads that thread along the mountains. Choosing a running path that was not a)
purely uphill and downhill, b) not covered in rocks and potholes, and c) not a
giant mud pit wasn’t exactly easy. Eventually I chose my path: the road to a
satellite town called Percoyá which, according to local “maps,” was 5K away
from the center of town. There are no road markers or really any way to measure
distance, so I had to measure my running based on time alone. Knowing that an
average runner needs 2+ hours to run a half-marathon, I created a long running
playlist on my iPod. Every time I ran, I tried to run for one more song.
Motivating myself to run at the crack of dawn in the rainy season and at high
altitude wasn’t easy. Every time I ran, I thought I was going to die.
Literally. My chest would clench, my throat would go raw, my heart would
practically burst out of my ribcage, and my lungs turned to fire. This is what a heart attack feels like,
I’d think, And if I collapse and die out
here, there’s no cell phone service and it’s a 7-hour drive to the nearest
hospital. Fortunately, I had other ways to motivate myself. Elizabeth, a
nurse technician at the health center, was a running aficionado and got quite
excited when I told her I needed to train for a race. She’d wake up and go
running at 6:00AM with me, happily jogging along while I wheezed and puffed.
Pretty soon, I got a reputation: I was that crazy white chick who ran to
Percoyá. Soon the tall tales grew:
“Oh, yea Lyndsey? Yea I hear she runs every day!”
“Well I hear she runs all the way to Chancahuasi, which is
more than 10K away! Then she runs back!”
“I hear she never walks.”
My running became the topic of many a conversation, at home
and in the street. Over dinner, my host father would beam proudly at my newest
running accomplishments and ask me my latest times.
Me: “Well, on average it takes me half and hour to get to
Percoyá.”
Teodocio, laughing: “Half an hour! Hell, I walk to Percoyá in half an hour!”
Me, eyeing his short, stout little body with skepticism
written all over my face: “Teodocio, do you own a wrist watch?”
Teodocio: “No.”
Me: “Cell phone?”
Teodocio: “No.”
Me, teeth clenched with forced composure: “Then how do you
know it takes you thirty minutes to arrive at Percoyá?”
Teodocio: “Been doing it all my life!”
Me: “…how very nice for you.”
The rain was a real drag on my running, sometimes quite
literally. The road would turn to slop and I’d find myself squishing and
slurping up the roads, trying not to slip and fall flat on my face or get stuck
in the muck. When I returned home, I imagine I looked something like The Swamp
Thing. Again, this caused a lot of comments:
Old woman: “Eh, missy! Where are you coming from?”
Me, sitting on the curb, flicking mud off of my pants, face,
and shoes: “Percoyá.”
Old woman: “Ooooh…did you take a motorcycle up there?”
Me: “No.”
Old woman: “Oh…” looks me up and down, “So you must have run
there, huh?”
Me, looking at myself covered in mud: “Gee, what was your
first guess?”
Thankfully, once the weather got better and the rain
stopped, the soccer field stopped being a swamp and turned into prime running
grounds. Although it’s kind of boring to run around and around in a circle, the
ground is flatter and better suited for long runs. When I’m running on fumes,
it’s nice to not have to worry about rocks, uneven ground, and cow poop. Once a
week, I’d stroll over to the soccer grounds, play a Game of Thrones audiobook on my iPod, and run for an hour or more.
Most people will tell you that you shouldn’t run every day.
I know, I know. There are those (crazy) people out there that do it and live to
tell the tale. I am not one of those. Generally speaking, it is best to run 2-3
days a week and do some sort of cross-training on the “off” days. My cross
training consisted of Insanity workouts. I’d wake up at 5:30 and crawl out of
bed, whip out my yoga mat, and frantically try to keep up as Shaun T beat the
crap out of my body. I’d do push up jacks, tuck jumps, mummy kicks, and God
knows what else from anywhere between 35-55 minutes. My host family actually
approached me about it, quite concerned. My room is over their store, so
whenever I did my exercises they’d hear this mysterious banging and thumping
from the second floor. They thought I was destroying the furniture in some sort
of fit of rage. Well, besides Insanity, I’ve found other ways to cross train. I
use P90X and, thanks to some inspiration from an Oxygen magazine sent from
home, I designed a circuit training and high intensity interval training
program that I’d do in the soccer field as well.
Unfortunately, exercise isn’t everything when it comes to
training. Diet is an equally important part of the equation. Controlling what
you eat is difficult, especially when you live with a host family. As you may
remember from a past blog post, food culture is very important here in Peru and
it is very easy to offend others if you reject a meal. To build endurance and
strength, there are several key ingredients you need in your meals: protein,
healthy carbs, and regular vitamins and minerals. It’s easier said than done to
get all of those even on a weekly basis
when you live in a carb-loving sierra culture. Most of the time, meals consist
of potatoes, rice, and a watery soup that is little more than noodles and
shreds of carrots. Every once in a while you’ll get eggs, which are heavily
fried and covered in oil, or charky,
dried sheep meat which has been hanging from the ceiling for God knows how
long, or home made cheese, which is left out in the open, uncovered for weeks.
Not exactly healthy or appetizing. So, I eventually had to broach the subject
with my host family. I explained that, although I enjoyed their cooking and
liked family meal times, due to a change in my work schedule it was necessary
for me to start cooking for myself. A white lie, but a necessary lie. The
change was wonderful, honestly. I loved having control over my food again,
knowing what exactly what was in each meal, how it was prepared, and how fresh
it was. I also loved being able to eat when I wanted to eat instead of waiting
until nighttime to have dinner. Protein intake also increased dramatically
thanks to an ample supply of lentils, quinoa, hardboiled eggs, yogurt, and whey
powder. My energy levels skyrocketed, my health improved, and my training
progressed leaps and bounds.
Before I knew it, May rolled around and it was time for race
day. Our PCV team arrived in Lima on Saturday and checked into our hostel. Our
desk clerk, an expat American, was heavily hung over and, seeing us in our
cheery mood, decided to give some sass:
Desk clerk: “So, you guys going to have fun in Lima?”
Me: “Yea, before we check into our race we’re going to grab
Starbucks.”
Desk clerk: “You know there’s a local coffee shop just around
the corner.”
Me: “Eh, I really want Starbucks.”
Desk clerk: “…you came all the way to South America to drink
Starbucks?”
Me, now peeved: “No, I live here. I came all the way to Lima
for Starbucks.”
Desk clerk: “Still kind of a bit of a sell out, don’t you
think?”
Me, now mad: “No, I don’t. I live in the middle of nowhere
where there are perhaps more sheep than people, my room is currently infested
with mice which enjoy running over me as I sleep, I have no Internet, ‘iffy’
cell phone service, and otherwise no other way besides traveling 7 hours on a
broken down bus to have any form of civilization. Now that I get to be in the
capital, I want my froofy, corporate-filled coffee and there’s not a damn thing
you can do about it. So lay off.”
After my glorious-tasting latte (screw you, desk clerk), we
took a taxi over to a city park to check into our races. We had team members
running the 10K, a couple running the half-marathon, and one brave soul running
the full marathon. God bless him. We each signed in, received our racing
shirts, time chips, and racing numbers, and went back to the hostel excited and
beaming. We were ready to race.
That night, we had an amazing carb load dinner. One of the
Peace Corps staff was also running in the marathon with us, so she kindly
invited all of us over to her house for a gourmet pasta dinner. It was
wonderful to be in her home, enjoy taco dip, root beer, and other “healthy”
snacks and then sit down to pesto, spaghetti with meat sauce and, Lord be
praised, home made mac ‘n cheese. To wash it all down, there was chocolate cake
for dinner. Life could not have been better.
Sunday morning, we woke up bright and early to make it to
the race. I was amazed at the crowd. I was later told that there were more than
14,000 people who ran that day, though I couldn’t tell. All I saw was a sea of
yellow running shirts. With adrenaline high and music blasting, the race was
kicked off at 7:00 AM and we all began our 21K trek to the finish line.
Running the half-marathon was perhaps one of the hardest and
most satisfying feats I’ve ever accomplished. I had two goals: never stop
running and try to finish in under 2 ½ hours. Despite my lack of affection for
running, the race was, honestly, enjoyable. The weather was overcast, so the
sun didn’t beat down on us and we didn’t have to worry about heat. The entire
course was covered with mist, which, although a pain for a glasses-wearer like
myself, kept you cool and refreshed. Every 5K or so there would be a
refreshment stand and 30 or so enthusiasts passing out Powerade and water, and
a short ways later you’d be bombarded by dancers, people with noisemakers, and
other forms of entertainment. The course weaved in and out of various
neighborhoods, so it was always interesting to look around. The ground was
flat, paved, and easy to run on. It felt great…at first.
When I ran past the 10K mark, I remember feeling extremely
proud. I had only ever run 5K races, so running past the 10K banner officially
marked the longest race I had ever run. Things started to deteriorate a bit
around 15K. I suddenly became acutely aware of every joint in my body and just
how much pounding they were taking as I ran on the asphalt. Somewhere around
that time, I also twisted my left knee. I don’t know how it happened, but boy
did I feel it for the rest of the race. I had to decrease my speed considerably
and by the 18K mark I was running on pure will alone. My entire body hurt and I
felt like my joints were going to pop out of my body like rusty bolts. It felt
like one of those cartoons, the ones with the old 1920’s car that hiccups and
jolts along the road, gradually losing gears and parts until there’s nothing
but the driver staring puzzled at the steering wheel. Oddly enough, I never
found it hard to breath and my lungs and chest felt great the whole time. I
guess it does pay to train at high altitude. The last 3K took an eternity to
run and the temptation to stop and walk was almost overpowering. It sounded so
sweet, to just walk 5 steps, maybe 10, and then begin running again. However, I
knew if I walked I wouldn’t be able to run again. So, I just had to tell myself
that I could do it, and that I would do it, over and over again until I
finally crossed the finish line. I still had music blasting in my ears, but
somehow I heard my fellow PCVs cheering me as I ran past them on the sidelines.
I finished my race 2 hours 39 minutes and 8 seconds after starting, which was
longer than I hoped but, considering the state of my knee, nothing to be
ashamed of.
When I crossed the finish line, I limped over and received a
medal, a ham and cheese sandwich, a Dunkin’ Donuts glazed donut, a chocolate
protein shake, and a blue Powerade. Honestly, I don’t think I’ve enjoyed a meal
so much in my entire life. I joined the other PCVs, cheered for the rest of our
friends as they crossed the finish line, and enjoyed the satisfaction of
knowing that I had pushed my body to the limits and somehow won.
After resting, showering, and kicking back some ibuprofen,
the rest of the night was celebrated with food and fun. Lunch consisted of
chocolate frosted donuts and a giant chicken burrito, followed up by an English
showing of the newest Star Trek movie. Following that, we all went to an
all-you-could-eat sushi bar and practically ate them out of house and home.
Unfortunately, we were also celebrating the goodbye of our friend and fellow
PCV, Vivaan. After working in Peru for nearly 3 years, he was returning to the
US to study law. He had just a couple of days left in Lima before leaving, and
we were determined to send him off well. We were all too tired and sore to do
any serious shenanigans, but being together and enjoying a large, well-earned
meal was enough.
So, call me crazy, but the half-marathon was actually quite
fun. The training was difficult, but it kept me sane and healthy during the
hardest months of life in the sierra. The race itself was painful to be sure,
but I pushed myself past any point I had ever pushed myself to before and you
know what? It felt good. I felt strong, empowered, and proud. Afterwards, I got
to celebrate with my close friends and laugh and reminisce over our run. The
best part? We all wore our medals for the rest of the day and into the night.
After all, we had earned them.